More Marche Memories - Arcevia to Frontone to Cantiano

​We leave Arcevia on a crisp morning with low lying fog which makes the commanding view of the surrounding valleys magical.  

We seem to be leaving the large agricultural area and heading back into more forested terrain with smaller farms.  We are still in the flood zone and before too long we start to see evidence. 

The ride is scenic as expected and we pass through some small communities. 

We get to Frontone early so we decide to ride up to the castle above the town before checking in.  Maybe not a smart move as this is a very steep climb and maybe we should have unpacked our bikes first.  Well we were feeling a little guilty as we had just eaten a huge lunch and it had been a pretty easy ride this day so we do what we must to earn another meal. 

The views from way above were very worthy of a little sweat and pushing. 

So we head down to check into our very old fashioned Italian hotel.  On this trip we have encountered two different ends of the spectrum with our non English speaking hosts.  There are the ones that really try to simplify what they are saying so you can understand and then those that must think if they talk more and use more words surely you will eventually understand.  The hostess today was in the latter category but we eventually got our bikes into storage and were handed a room key.  We go to the room, open the door , basic but nice and clean.   I say to Jim this is strange as I see a partially filled bottle of water with a glass over the top.  Well that must be how they welcome their guests.  Then upon further investigation I see the sneakers in the corner. Oh boy she gave us the keys to someone’s room.  I am very proud of myself as I was able to fully assemble several cohesive sentences in Italian to communicate with the hostess that la camera e occupata.  She apologizes and gives us a new key which appears to belong to us alone 

Anyway we decide to dine at the hotel restaurant. While waiting we take a walk around town and run into two teenage boys who are happy to show off their fancy ape to us. 

Jim asks if we can see inside and it was a hoot to see the decor. 

We wait till 7:30 when the restaurant opens and head down.  As in our other Marche dining experience in Ostra it was astonishingly good.  Jim had passateli with mushrooms and I had the passatelli in brodo (broth). Both prepared in Marche traditional manner.  I had never had this kind of pasta which is made from stale bread, eggs and Parmesan cheese.  I am now a big fan and need to try this at home.  Then Jim had the Guinea fowl cooked over an open flame which was delectable.  The house wines both red (vernaccia ) and white (Biancatella del Matauro) were excellent.  Right up with the best meals we have had the whole trip. 

The next day is another short ride. We ride through Cagli with its cylindrical armament turret. It is an elegant and lively town with a lot of stately buildings 

 

There is much flood evidence in the city outskirts. 

We are riding from Cagli on the ancient Via Flaminia where we see much damage along the river it follows. 

There is an intact Roman bridge and it is interesting to note that it stood strong through the flood even though it is at a river pinch point.  I guess they don’t build them like they used to anymore!  

We ride through Cantiano which has been tragically devastated by the flood. I didn’t take many pics because there were people working hard to restore and clean up and it felt a little insensitive but the historic center was a mess 

I only took the above picture where we were having a snack at a bar on some higher ground.  You can see some cleanup crew guys heading up to do the same behind Jim.  We then ride  the last few k to Birrificio del Catria. We had stayed there three years ago and we wanted to revisit.  Augusto and Vera, the hosts acted like we were relatives, hugs and kisses when we arrived.  We are the only guests here tonight and the restaurant is closed like it was last time we were here    But just like last time Vera is cooking us food that she will be delivering to our apartment later.  She speaks no English but what we understand is that we will be getting some cannelloni stuffed with vegetables, some meatballs and pig feet cooked in beer.  We will report back but we can’t wait.