Approaching the End of Our Travels- Norcia to Castel San Felice to Foligno to Spello

​We leave Norcia to head to our stay at an agriturismo in Castel San Felice called Zafferano e dintorni.  We had been communicating by email and I sensed their reluctance to accept our reservation. They indicated that they were busy with the saffron and apple harvest.  They said we could stay but they could not offer dinner.  We were happy with that as there was a restaurant right next door so we wouldn’t starve! 

So we drop down from Norcia onto the Spoleto Norcia rail trail. The early morning ride is in cool deeply shaded forest.  It feels strange pedaling on the fairly level rail trail.  It makes us realize that most days have involved lots of steep ups or downs with very few occasions of long level stretches 

The level of course comes to an end with a pretty tough climb but only for a few k. Jim takes a moment to commune with a local 

He said I should label this two asses!  The views are wonderful and we take a break at the summit for a giant cookie which wasn’t too bad. 

Then a glorious descent.

The valley below is full of charming little villages of which we pass through a few. 

Then back onto the rail trail. 

A few more towns 

We also passed a large trout hatchery which is completely netted over and it was obvious the reason why. We saw at least one cormorant looking bird on top trying to figure out how to nab a meal. 

We arrive at our agriturismo and are greeted by Marta and her brother Luca.  They are busy hauling bins of apples with their father, Claudio but they take a lot of time to show us around. 

Here are some bins of flowers post pistil removal and Luca with some live demo ones to show us the flowers with pistils and to explain the process a bit. 

Their agriturismo is right next to this lovely church and abbey in the background. 

They tell us they are heading out to their apple orchards in about an hour if we are interested in going. We are. We do.  

So we walk with Marta up to the orchards and we get to work.  The apple trees are young and you can mostly reach the top without a ladder. They are loaded with apples.  I am on one side with Marta and Jim is on the other side of the row with Claudio.  Marta speaks some English and with my bit of Italian we talk and talk while we fill bins.  

Our conversation is wide ranging and Marta translates for her Dad who does not speak any English but is keenly interested in us especially when he finds out we lived in Alaska. He seemed to be really into northern expeditions and northern climates.  We talk about our families, their business and lots of other random topics.  It was a wonderful interchange and I believe they enjoyed it just as much as we did. Marta tells me that her Dad has said he can tell that Jim knows how to do manual labor because he understands what to do next obviously without instructions because Jim is not very skilled with Italian at this point. 

When we return from the orchard, we chat with Marta and Luca some more and it was really great because we told funny life stories about our kids and they about their childhoods. I think that is the first time we have really shared personal stuff with Italians and felt like there was a chance of really understanding despite the language barrier. It was fun!

That evening we go to the restaurant which is part of the church and old abbey next door 

It is rustic but elegant and we think maybe a little too rich for our blood until the owners dog decides to join us at our table.  So immediately you felt like family. As it turned out we are the only people at the restaurant that night.  It was definitely one of the best meals of the trip. Jim had a pasta dish and I had a gnocchi dish cooked in sagrantino wine which was undoubtedly the best gnocchi I have ever eaten.  We shared a steak for a second course.  

Overall, this was a wonderful stay. The next morning despite the family being very busy getting ready for a school educational visit to their farm, they all come out to take photos with us.  We meet Rita, their Mom who is lovely and just as gracious as the rest. Goodbyes are with hugs and kisses. 

So off we go again. This time to spend a night in Foligno. We had a real surprise trying to book lodging for this weekend. These last few weeks we have been kind of winging it. We just find a place a day or two ahead of time and book it.  Many times we have literally been the only guests in both hotels, bnbs and restaurants like last night.  So when we started looking, there was almost nothing available.  So we spent a whole evening working on covering this weekend and we ended up with a reservation at an apartment in Foligno and then we were able to get s place in spello for the next three nights.  It turns out that the All Souls Day Weekend is a huge holiday for Italians. Who knew?!

So out if the agriturismo we start the first and only climb of the day.  It is a steep one and one that we did in 2018.  I remember lots of sweat and lots of pushing my bike.  All the riding has paid off because I think maybe I only got off the bike for one really steep pitch.  

At the top of the climb this placard is a meaningful statement from the past in this sacred land.  

Then over to the spoletino valley where we ride on the bike path into Foligno.  We stop at a bar on the main piazza and order a couple of drinks and are surprised by the complementary snacks that accompany it.  If you don’t know, if you order drinks at a bar, usually you will be given some bar snacks pro gratis.  Usually it is some olives and potato chips and peanuts. This was an elaborate spread. 

Then a pleasant night in Foligno. The following morning our next lodging is only a few miles away and we can’t check in till late afternoon.  So what to do ? How about we ride bikes?  We take a circuitous route there passing heading towards Bevagna.  When we are almost to Bevagna we are overtaken by an older gentleman on an e-bike.  He pulls up next to Jim and starts conversing.  We end up chatting with him the rest of the way to Bevagna and he wants to buy us a coffee and a snack.  His name is Paolo and he is a retired English teacher although he said his English was rusty because it has been a long time since he taught.  He was an interesting fellow.  He had done a lot of bike touring himself and had done some rather extensive solo trips that involved camping.  He told us about a trip to Budapest and then he really recommended Albania.  It was a pleasure to get to know him and he left us a card to call him next time we come. 

Now we are settled into our air bnb in Spello for some relaxation and laundry catch up.