Growling Dogs in a Porcini Paradise - Ornano Grande to Parnesi

​Today wasn’t a long day but of course we got our requisite dose of climbing in.  We are always flabbergasted at the end of the day when we look at Jim’s strava data and see how much climbing we did. 

We hoped for another chance to see the King of Ornano who was staying at the hotel as well but he didn’t emerge. So after breakfast off we go 

The day’s journey maybe lacked some of the dramatic views of days past but as always through some lovely towns. Even hit a town who was having their weekly market and bought some fresh peaches.  By the way fruit in Italy is so much better than we ever get at home.  Imagine the best peach or plum you have ever eaten and that is almost what you always get here.  

Today at our lunch stop at some road side bar in some tiny hamlet, Shawn asked for her usual Americano.  The barkeep was totally stumped. He had no idea how to prepare an American coffee.  There was much discussion among staff and finally she got an Italian espresso with a little extra water which is basically what an americano is watered down espresso.   

We arrive at our hotel in Parnesi, Anna and Nino’s. We are mystified how anyone else can figure out how to stay here.  They don’t have a phone number and only have a Facebook page.  Doug messaged them a few times and eventually did get a cryptic response but still not one hundred percent sure that we had rooms.  After a few more messages, we did get a response that was clearly a confirmation.  Doug broke the code.  

Parnesi is a tiny hamlet. A dozen or so houses this very quant looking hotel among them. We enter and there are boxes of freshly harvested porcinis alongside crates of vegetables and fruits.

  There are locals at the bar and as always we feel like the curiosity of the day.  Ana comes out.  She is cute as a button and of course no English so we bumble along with clumsy cave man Italian.  She leads us to a spot to park our bikes.  Then we head to our rooms, she opens a door then says no not this one, opens another nope not quite right for us. Then finally the last two doors are our rooms.  Very nice, simple but spacious and clean both with lovely flower laden balconies overlooking the tiny town square.  

We head to our rooms to shower and relax.  At one point Doug leaves to go for a walk.  Opens his  door and there is a dog growling at him!  What a place!   Then this quiet paradise turns into Grand central station.  There are kids running around in the square, dogs wrestling, there is some kind of vehicle which is giving rides to kids, there is some flat bed truck that kids are pretending is a stage and they are dancing, music, loud conversations.  Unbelievable!  

That night we go to dinner in the very atmospheric restaurant.   We don’t know what to expect but we know it will involve porcini, carne and pasta.  On the walls there are all kind of awards for porcini dishes won by the lovely  Ana.  So a liter of delicious house red arrives.  Soon a giant bowl of pasta with porcini arrives family style.  It is the best bowl of pasta of the trip.  Perfection.  Then a platter of meat and potatoes arrives.  Lamb, pork and sausages.  Once again the best of the trip.  

  

Ana emerges from the kitchen and comes to our table to chat and we tell her how wonderful it all was.  The server is helping with translations and at one point Ana says she doesn’t have to translate because she points to me, she speaks Italian. High praise but not sure deserved.  She asks if we want a taste of her homemade digestivo a genezia.  We have had it before and honestly none of us were that crazy about it. But we politely accept. Out come rather large portions so we are worried.  However, once again the astonishing Ana has performed some kind of magic with this bitter herb and it is really good!  Later she tells us they don’t accept credit cards cash only.  We say fine, non è una problema.  However, Doug is awoken at around ten pm. Has to put a towel on to answer the door and she tells him the amount of the bill and he can pay it tomorrow.  Once again, what a place!

When Doug leaves his room in the morning he is once again met by a growling dog!   By the way, I never saw this dog! 

After breakfast Ana graciously lets us take her picture.  She wishes us goodbye with kisses and kindness.