Molise Does Exist or leaving the Abruzzi for the Molisano - Sulmona to Castel di Sangro to Fornelli

​Yesterday morning we left Sulmona early in the cool morning air to begin our fourteen mile climb.    We passed through quiet Cansano where nary a soul was stirring. We had spectacular views looking back at the Gran Sasso. 

Then onward and upward through a deep shady forest of majestic beech trees called the Bosco Sant’ Antonio.    Soon after we were in a spectacular green valley surrounded by imposing peaks. There were cattle ranging through the verdant fields and lots of prosperous farms.   

We ended our long climb in Pescocostanza which was a very scenic winter ski resort town where we took in some sites and stopped for coffee.  

We then continued on passing through several other towns surrounded by winter ski slopes and ended up in our destination town for the evening Castel di Sangro.  We were stunned by our accommodation and feared it might turn out to be a little too high brow for our likes but of course after a bit of confusion with the person checking us in, the usual warm and welcoming hospitality.  The hotel was called il lavatoio.  This translates to the wash house. They literally built this extraordinary lodging around the towns ancient wash house.  Incorporating the communal wash basins where the town’s women washed their families’ clothes.   Here are our bikes leaning up against the wash basins.  

We walked around the town that evening.  A few shots around this stately town 

So after a delicious breakfast and a warm farewell from our host, Francesco off again.  This time we are heading to the mysterious region of Molise.  Italians joke about their smallest region, saying Molise non esiste.  It doesn’t exist.  So we go with maybe low expectations based on this Italian joke.  

We leave Castel di Sangro and immediately get on a beautiful bike oath which goes for several miles through the countryside.   

We pass through some small towns such as Villa Scrontone.  This photo is someone drying their garden beans at their doorstep 

We ride through Alfedena still in Abruzzo and do some exploring 

Doesn’t this guy look like he is holding that kid by the hair?

Then we start climbing through a green verdant forest passing lots of cattle grazing. We pass one area where the cattle are grazing below us and stop to listen to the cow bells which were like a discordant symphony.  (Cue Saturday Night Live - more cowbell..) 

Then we see it, the Molise border.  Yes, it does seem to exist!  And it is stunningly beautiful.  

We enjoy a long winding downhill trying not to crash as we are trying to look at everything all around us. We head into our first small town in Molise called Pizzone.  The first old woman we pass engages us in conversation.  We can understand little as she is speaking fast and doesn’t seem to get that we don’t speak the language well.  But we do get the message that we should continue up to the piazza and eat at the bar.  We pass other friendly people who all have welcoming words. We get to the bar and there are a dozen or so elderly people sitting at the outside tables and yes many start asking questions.  We are amazed as truly this could be the friendliest place we have ever been anywhere in earth.  Our conclusion is that Molise is the best.  

The bar keep is an interesting  man. He speaks some English as he spent a lot of time working internationally for an American sugar cane company mostly in Brazil.  When we order drinks at the bar, Shawn asks for water. He pulls out a plastic jug and a cup and says, make it yourself, Lady.  He joins us for conversation and we learn that after his long career abroad he basically returned here which is home.  When we are getting ready to leave, Shawn goes in to pay the bill and he says with some surprise, You pay? Then oh, American style!  I think surprised the female was paying!

Then we continued on to Castel saint Angelo, the movie location for My Country.  A lovely little town. Then we went to the lake below to eat our picnic lunch. 

  

We no sooner get out our lunch and a pack of cats emerge from the woods and surround us,  the resident beggars. 

Then to the abbey of saint Vincenzo Al Volturno.  There was a massive archeological complex which unfortunately was only open on Sundays but the newer abbey was open and it also had a museum inside.  The history of destruction and rebirth was mind boggling.  These Benedictines had been totally annihilated by several invaders over the centuries but they kept rebuilding and coming back. The Arabs burned them to the ground in 800 and then the Norman’s and then at least two other invaders.  Geesh, the Middle Ages were tough!  

We passed a few other towns enroute and this castle was noteworthy! 

Then  we continue on with a hot climb up to Fornelli where our lodging awaits us. We get there to meet up with Doug and Shawn who are seated at a lively bar where there is an animated game of Scopa going on.  After observing and Doug talking with he bartender, we learn the game is like blackjack sort of with the loser or is it the winner drinking a beer?   Anyway, it was a lot of fun to watch. 

Molise does exist and it is the best!