Ancient Bells and Back to Abruzzo - Civitanova del Sannio to Agnone to Roccacascalegna

​Today was one of our shortest days on the bike.  The morning starts with a climb out of Civitanova dell Sannio into some very rural countryside.  We get barked at by lots of dogs and a billy goat with a giant cow bell pops out of the weeds at one point. I wanted to take a picture of him but with his big horns and long beard but feared he might take a run at me so onward.  

We passed through some small towns before arriving at Pietrabbondante where we stopped to look around.  Yes as the name indicated there were abundant rocks!   

We stopped for coffee at a lively bar and Doug had to repair a flat tire here.

Then onward through more beautiful landscapes to reach our bnb Borgo San Pietro in Agnone. 

The view from our balcony 

Since we arrived early we have lots of time to look around this town. As in most towns, it has its own flavor. It is bigger than I expected.  Apparently a noble person who was influential in the towns history brought a lot of Venetian crafts people with him so there is a Venetian look in at least one of the neighborhoods.  

The town is best known for having the oldest bell foundry in the world founded around 1000 ad and we walked by the museum which was not open but lots of bells were outside to gawk at.  

We were pleased to learn that one of the town, neighborhoods was hosting a festival.   It was the festival of the Madonna of the Maiello.   We got a blow by blow of all the three days upcoming events by an enthusiastic local.  Literally he told us the whole three day schedule including religious ceremonies, games for kids and adults, musical events etc.  All in Italian of course.  The best part is him describing the events for the big, strong men, pantomining pulling things, throwing things, kilt wearing (he did feel it was important to state it is Italian men in kilts though) running, cycling and teams climbing a greased pole.  We were in hysterics.  

There were big boiling cauldrons over flames behind him. I asked, Cos e?  Then a big explanation about that which left us still not knowing what it was until finally he lifted the covering where we could see huge ears of corn. This is our friend behind his cauldrons. 

This is apparently an important part of the festival.   We did purchase some of the corn that evening out of curiosity and although we were all on our best behavior and made sure to mostly eat it all.  It was pretty bad.  What we think it was about was re-enactment of how the townspeople revived stored corn during the long hard winters long ago.  This was very mature corn that had probably been about dried out then the boiling thing was to resurrect it somewhat.  Anyway we ate other street food including arrosticini (roasted meat on a stick) and pork sausage sandwiches.  That was all very good.    

We did catch the procession of the Madonna.   The small parade leaving the neighborhood’s church with the Madonna statue sadly covered in plastic because of the very light rain.  As we watched, we notice everyone doing the sign of the cross as the statue passed. The little old lady next to me had tears in her eyes.  

The next morning we depart and after a long climb with expansive vistas from the switchbacks as we ascend we reach the top and descend through a deep dark forest path.  We emerge from the forest having just crossed back into Abruzzo into a magical land.  With the mist shrouded Adriatic Sea far in the background we see every mountaintop and knob with a village clinging to its sides.  

 

We pass through many lovely small towns.

However, the day starts turning into a suffer fest for me. The sun is scorching and the climbs are long and steep.  I had to resort to a lot of bike pushing.  Probably pushed as much as I rode in the last twelve ks.  We arrive in Roccacascalgna at our bnb.  Even though I am usually on point for communication purposes.  I go to my room as soon as a key is in hand and lay down on the bed and start taking on fluids!   I hear the rest of the gang trying to carry on conversations with the chatty hosts!  

After a cold shower, consumption of tons of limonata, I am ready to venture out.  We see a pharmacist and we need sunscreen so we go there and of course the usual where are you from etc. He tells us (as has been the norm nearly everywhere all in Italian) that there are three Americans in town. He said you can buy a nice house here for 35,000.  

Then we go to a bakery where there is an elderly woman behind the counter who seems a little uninterested in talking to us but as we start asking her questions admiring her baked goods, asking what things are , she really warms up and starts showing us the good stuff such as the porchetta baked right into the bread.  Deadly deliciousness! Then she starts giving us some freebies along with the items we have chosen.  So fun!

This town was like a fairytale. The castle was unreal.  So the suffering ends with the day finishing in beauty and magic.