The Works of Gods and Men - Fumone to Sora

​Today was a challenging ride but one that passed through a variety of magnificent sites.  We started with a long downhill from picturesque Fumone.  Once again a lot of delightful rural landscapes.  As we approached the city of Alatri we passed a prisoner of war camp.  It was mostly ruins of buildings with a couple of memorials.  Every day of our journey we are reminded of how these wars affected every part of Italy as every town has its memorials to “ai caduti” the fallen. 

Then we enter Alatri and it’s historic center.  We immediately realize that we are in a new definition of old.  There is old and then there is really old!   The main piazza was a stunner with a sense of ancient times with an ancient church with peeling frescoes, it’s sundial and gorgeous fountain. 

Then we continued riding up to the acropolis on top.  We learned that this is the second largest acropolis after Athens but for some reason it isn’t visited by a lot of tourists.  We didn’t see any and I have been to Athens and it swarms with tourists. Although there is much mystery about these ancient acropolis in this part of the works it is surely over 2400 years old.  

And the Cyclopean walls were mind blowing.  Once again a lot of mystery as to how they were built but they know they used pulleys, harnesses, draft animals, likely slaves. We can only imagine how many lives were lost and crushed limbs.  The name Cyclopean architecture comes from history where it was believed that only the powerful mythical Cyclops would have the strength to move the massive boulders. 

The city was so impressive throughout. 

We stopped in Collepardo for second breakfast and cappuccino and provisioned for a picnic on the road somewhere.  

After a lot of climbing in the scorching sun we reached Trisulti, a majestic monastic complex from 1204.  Originally there were Carthusian monks who who known for their knowledge of herbs and medicines. They gathered and used over 2500 herbs that grow in these mountains. They made medicines and liquors including Sambuca. They even extracted poisons from snakes for various applications. Their pharmacy was  stunning looking just like it was when it was when active. 

There were churches, lovely gardens and contemplative places.  The afternoon weather was rolling in and we still had a long way to go so we couldn’t linger too long 

Looking back at Trisulti further down the road.

During a steep climb for the rest of our group and a steep push the bike for me, at my lowest moment, sweat burning my eyes hoping for the summit,… out of nowhere the cutest little pony appeared and in a show of what I can only describe as showing off, he ran up and down the fence line bucking and shaking his head.  Sadly my camera was buried and I did not grab a photo but I have to think he was some kind of divine intervention to lift my spirits. 

Throughout the trip Shawn was having some bike troubles which resulted in her occasionally  not having rear brakes which was not a good thing on this terrain. It was something that a simple adjustment could cure if only we had the tool to do it.  So upon our arrival in Sora we stopped at a bike shop and with my rudimentary Italian , lots of hand gestures and google translate we were able to communicate  what we needed.  The proprietor once he understood us got right on it and the right tool  appeared and we were able to make the adjustment.  Doug tried to give him some money, he adamantly rejected it.  Our daily dose of the kindness of strangers in Italy.  

Then we arrive at our destination which is a lodging on the ground floor of a palazzo that was used as a prison in the Second World War. The palazzo was occupied and lived in by the German officers during their occupation and the rooms we stayed in were literally used as prison cells.  Note the original doors.   We were greeted by the proprietor who guess what , his family has resided here for at least a thousand years minus the short period the Germans took it over.  

With the help of google translate he gave us the history of the place it’s renovations after earthquakes and how they renovated for us visiting prisoners. Lock us up. It was a luxurious prison.  I was about brought to tears when I stepped  out of the amazing shower and picked up the soft towel that smelled so good.